| BRIDLING
(2 points) and TUNNING an INDONESIAN FIGHTERKITE
You can use cotton (or nylon) line to make the bridle of the
kite

Beghin to stick spine and bow to make this point hard and moveless...

Make a 2 small holes on each sides of the point of crux of bow
and spine with a small piece of wood for example to attach the
upper bridle point...

The same for the lower bridle point (about 6 inches from the
down extremity of the spine)...
[ Nota : You can vary the place of that point on the spine
: the upper it is, the more 'turny' (strange word isn't it??)
or active will be the kite !]

Make the first node in turning around the spine/bow crossing...

Make a first nod like this...

...and a second to stop the line like this...You don't 'close'
the node. This will make your kite great active in turning...

Take the mesurment of your bridle like this : a first lenght
on the spine...

Keep the place of the point on the line a place it to the top
of the spine...

...and stretch the line to the back of the kite and then cut
the cotton line. You got a great mesure of your bridle.

Insert the cotton line the buil your second bridle point...

make a first circle, round around the spine...

...and a second and then stop it with a double node

Stretch the bridle like this.
[Nota : to have a standar bridling, make the lower bit of
the cotton line parallel to the down edge of the kite. You will
adapt later this ]

Make a buckle, nod with the bridle to the point you get upper...

This is the final bridle line :

First TUNNING :
If the kite is too stable (not active), make a hole on the upper
bridle bit.

First TUNNING :
If the kite is too active (turning to much), make a hole on the
lower bridle bit.

IN FLIGHT :
If the kite is naturally turning right (as needles of a watch),
soft the left part of the bow by twisting a few seconds and slack
it. You make the same for left turning of the kite by softing
the left side of the bow

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